About Fado
Before you go to listen to fado, I suggest that you read a
little bit about this unique musical genre born in Lisbon:
Fado stands to Lisbon the same way that Tango stands to Buenos Aires or Flamenco to Andalucia. It is a genuine form of urban music born in the nineteen century, in Lisbon, in this very neighbourhood - Mouraria - where this studio stands.
It can be sung by men or women of any age and it is always accompanied by a Portuguese Guitar (Guitarra Portuguesa) and a Classical Guitar (Viola). Sometimes an acoustic bass or contrabass reinforces the bass lines of the Viola. You don’t have to understand the lyrics to feel embraced by fado.
The lyrics are usually about Lisbon, about love, about men and women, about typical characters of old Lisbon or about the festivities that take place in mid-June. Like in jazz, Fado has its own repertoire of standards, which we call the Fados Tradicionais. Most of these were composed decades ago, or even a century ago, but the lyrics to all these songs keep changing over the years and new lyrics are being written every day. Thus, each fado has always two names: a nickname (alcunha), relating to the original text/melody/composer, which never changes; and a new name, related to the new lyrics.
In Fado houses you will mostly hear traditional fados, a collective heritage with no copyrights. But besides these, each singer has been composing new songs and writing new lyrics to the global repertoire as they develop their own personal career. Some fado houses host only a couple of singers who take turns (two to four singers). Each singer perfoms 3 or 4 songs, followed by a small 10 minutes break. You are expected not to make any noise during performances. Don't take pictures with flash.
If you want to read more about Fado’s origin and history, you should browse a little black book called Fado that you’ll find in the studio. It’s both in English and Portuguese and it has a good summary in the initial pages (starting at page 10.)
If you want to buy CDs, I recommend that you go to the store VLA Records, located in the building Embaixada, in Príncipe Real (at the very north end of Bairro Alto). It’s a shop especialized in Portuguese music and the owner is a fado singer, she can help you pick. For your reference when you buy CDs, here's a list of my favorite fado singers and musicians:
If you’re going to a Fado House for the first time, you want to ensure that you have a genuine first experience. There are tons of fado houses all over the city but in most of them the quality of the performers will probably leave you unmoved and indifferent. Fado is now considered World Heritage and I can assure you that it can offer unforgettable evenings.
Below you'll find a list of the fado houses that I usually recommend to my guests. That is, the ones that I go more often, or that I would like to go one day : )
Fado stands to Lisbon the same way that Tango stands to Buenos Aires or Flamenco to Andalucia. It is a genuine form of urban music born in the nineteen century, in Lisbon, in this very neighbourhood - Mouraria - where this studio stands.
It can be sung by men or women of any age and it is always accompanied by a Portuguese Guitar (Guitarra Portuguesa) and a Classical Guitar (Viola). Sometimes an acoustic bass or contrabass reinforces the bass lines of the Viola. You don’t have to understand the lyrics to feel embraced by fado.
The lyrics are usually about Lisbon, about love, about men and women, about typical characters of old Lisbon or about the festivities that take place in mid-June. Like in jazz, Fado has its own repertoire of standards, which we call the Fados Tradicionais. Most of these were composed decades ago, or even a century ago, but the lyrics to all these songs keep changing over the years and new lyrics are being written every day. Thus, each fado has always two names: a nickname (alcunha), relating to the original text/melody/composer, which never changes; and a new name, related to the new lyrics.
In Fado houses you will mostly hear traditional fados, a collective heritage with no copyrights. But besides these, each singer has been composing new songs and writing new lyrics to the global repertoire as they develop their own personal career. Some fado houses host only a couple of singers who take turns (two to four singers). Each singer perfoms 3 or 4 songs, followed by a small 10 minutes break. You are expected not to make any noise during performances. Don't take pictures with flash.
If you want to read more about Fado’s origin and history, you should browse a little black book called Fado that you’ll find in the studio. It’s both in English and Portuguese and it has a good summary in the initial pages (starting at page 10.)
If you want to buy CDs, I recommend that you go to the store VLA Records, located in the building Embaixada, in Príncipe Real (at the very north end of Bairro Alto). It’s a shop especialized in Portuguese music and the owner is a fado singer, she can help you pick. For your reference when you buy CDs, here's a list of my favorite fado singers and musicians:
- Amália Rodrigues (1920-1999) - She is considered the best of all times, the ambassador of fado, a reference to every fado singer still today. Besides her innovative style, she upgraded the quality of the lyrics in fado because she brought in poems by some of the best portuguese poets);
- Camané (b.1967) - He is my favorite male singer, a true Midas in what concerns fado; His two brothers Pedro Moutinho and Helder Moutinho also have wonderful deep voices and sing marvelously. To be honest, now I'm not sure any more which of the three siblings I like the most. You can usually listen to Helder Moutinho in his own fado house - Maria da Mouraria. I've heard Pedro Moutinho sing in Mesa de Frades and also in Adega Machado.
- Joana Amendoeira (b. 1982) - I had the chance to work with her in one of her records and we became friends : ) And she's amazing! You can usually see her live at Sr. Vinho.
- Gisela João (b.1983) - She started her career very recently but she became country-wide famous in less than a year. When you listen to her you'll know why.
- Carminho (b.1984) - She has an amazing voice. Personally, I like her first record "Fado" better than the following ones.
- Ana Moura (b.1979) - I don't know her work very well (yet). But everytime I listen to her, I love it!
If you’re going to a Fado House for the first time, you want to ensure that you have a genuine first experience. There are tons of fado houses all over the city but in most of them the quality of the performers will probably leave you unmoved and indifferent. Fado is now considered World Heritage and I can assure you that it can offer unforgettable evenings.
Below you'll find a list of the fado houses that I usually recommend to my guests. That is, the ones that I go more often, or that I would like to go one day : )
Fado Houses
Clube de Fado (in Alfama/Encosta da Sé)
It looks a bit formal, but not too much, no need to dress up. This the fado house that I recommend more often, not only because the musicians and the singers are usually very good, but also because the place is rather big and so there are good chances of getting a seat (it actually has two separate concert rooms working simultaneously).
I dont' recommend having dinner there, it's expensive (around 45€ each person), but you can show up there around 22h30 and tell them that you just want to get a drink and listen to fado. Usually there's no fee to get inside but, anyway, just in case, make sure that you only pay what you consume. Make sure you ask for a good table, mentioning that it is your first time and you'd like to stay as close as possible to the musicians : ) Sometimes it works. Anyway, when lots of people leave after 23h so you can always ask to move to a better table later in the evening. On busy days it closes around 2h00 am. Rua São João da Praça, 92; Telephone: 218 882 694 (10 minutes walking distance from the studio) Open all week www.clube-de-fado.com |
Mesa de Frades (in Alfama)
The name of this place literally means Table of Freys. This fado house works inside an old chapel room, no longer used as so. It's a beautiful room, covered in blue typical portuguese tiles.
The musicians and singers are usually very good and, since it's more casual than Clube de Fado, there's a chance that some professional It's cozy and informal but also tiny. It is usually packed, so it's not easy to find a seat. But maybe you'll be lucky. It's worth the try. Use the same system as the previous one, arriving around 22h30. On busy days it closes later than 2h00 am. Rua dos Remédios 139A telephone: 218 871 452 |
Maria da Mouraria (in Mouraria)
Previously known as Casa da Severa, this relatively new fado house is located in the building where Severa lived. Maria Severa Onofriana is number one in fado "mithology". She was the most famous fado singer in the XIX century, and she is also said to have been a prostitute.
This fado house is not as popular as the previous two (yet), not only because it is rather new in comparison, but perhaps also because of its modern look (daring design and architecture for a fado house), but I really like the space and ambiance. I never had dinner here but I think it's less expensive than the previous two. It usually hosts excellent musicians and singers. Some of them belonging to the younger generation of fado talents. The owner, Helder Moutinho, is a singer himself and also a major agent (and head-hunter!) in the field. Largo da Severa, nº2; telephone: 964 766 056; Open from Wednesday to Sunday; www.mariadamouraria.pt |